I will let the pictures do the Talking ( as if!)
this is the Tec offering,
And this is the Kent/HMC stage 2,
notice the width at the top is greater than the one above so the Rocker/Roller holds the Valve open longer. The longer you hold open the Door the more stuff gets In or Out
There is of course a point at which too much gets in and out .like this one which was in and out no test Ride.
Saving this one for a Boosted Himma
Soon, like why am I so far from the action?. I will have the H-TC with a decomp I expect it will do well and know a perfect Test now, 0 to 100 ! cheaper than a Dyno if you do not get a Ticket for it
But this leads us to that Dreaded Task of "Dialing in the Cam" which is unlike "Plug and Play".
There is a Dowel Pin that locates the Cam sprocket to the Cam as we know, so its Fixed, the Rotor/Flywheel that incorporates the Drive Sprocket is Keyed and also Fixed .
As the distance between the Centers isn't adjustable the Tensioner takes up the Slack of the Chain, which as we know stretches.
So it retards the Cam timing as a result of the Adjustment being done on one side only.
The Chain is can be moved forward or back a tooth/Link which is mostly too much, currently there is nothing I know of that presents as a solution.
Luckily this doesn't matter unless you are chasing the last Horsepower. But Ideally I would like these lines to be a bit closer.
So I need some Offset Dowel Pins .187inch in the 3 or so variations available
this is the Tec offering,
And this is the Kent/HMC stage 2,
notice the width at the top is greater than the one above so the Rocker/Roller holds the Valve open longer. The longer you hold open the Door the more stuff gets In or Out
There is of course a point at which too much gets in and out .like this one which was in and out no test Ride.
Saving this one for a Boosted Himma
Soon, like why am I so far from the action?. I will have the H-TC with a decomp I expect it will do well and know a perfect Test now, 0 to 100 ! cheaper than a Dyno if you do not get a Ticket for it
But this leads us to that Dreaded Task of "Dialing in the Cam" which is unlike "Plug and Play".
There is a Dowel Pin that locates the Cam sprocket to the Cam as we know, so its Fixed, the Rotor/Flywheel that incorporates the Drive Sprocket is Keyed and also Fixed .
As the distance between the Centers isn't adjustable the Tensioner takes up the Slack of the Chain, which as we know stretches.
So it retards the Cam timing as a result of the Adjustment being done on one side only.
The Chain is can be moved forward or back a tooth/Link which is mostly too much, currently there is nothing I know of that presents as a solution.
Luckily this doesn't matter unless you are chasing the last Horsepower. But Ideally I would like these lines to be a bit closer.
So I need some Offset Dowel Pins .187inch in the 3 or so variations available
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