I did but I dont understand what he did from his picture etc.
The "Red ECU" thread
- Thread starter sam2019
- Start date
I checked his post history, could not find it. maybe it was in a PM to Thony?@Sasa did write it up , somewhere on here
...or it was this one:
Adjusting cold idle
The following lines describe how I do approach this matter and it should be helpful to those seeking to make adjustments to their own bike. These are general guidelines needed because every bike is slightly different and there is no a common value that can be used for every bike. Stock bike...
forum.himalayan-tools.com
Last edited:
@sam2019 that bike runs like shit, I agree.
First thing I'd do is to check Idle screw after you've warmed up the bike properly.
If possible next video do it with the laptop connected and the software running, otherwise it's difficult to diagnose if the RB is acting funky.
Anyhow by the sound of it, it seems to me that the bike is gasping for air
First thing I'd do is to check Idle screw after you've warmed up the bike properly.
If possible next video do it with the laptop connected and the software running, otherwise it's difficult to diagnose if the RB is acting funky.
Anyhow by the sound of it, it seems to me that the bike is gasping for air
that is somehere under the tank/seat if I recall correctly - will do tomorrow in the workshop.
however it idles perfectly at 1100 when warm
I can do that tomorrow morning - (idle screw will be same but i will look at the other options you mentioned in your post)
unlikely - the current air filter is even more porous than the OEM.
Last edited:
Warm idle should be 1250 +/-50 RPM according to manual. I suggest you act on the idle screw (under the tank) tomorrow.
I also suggest you do (after tuning the idle screw) some testing without the air filter snorkel.
As written in the map description, these maps have been developed mainly for highly modded bike, with free flowing filter and exhaust (even dekat pipes).
I still believe all maps 1/2/3 are too rich in your build, while map4 is a bit too lean.
The difference in timing between map2 and map3 is probably what prevents the cutoff when you twist the throttle.
Please remind me the configuration of your bike (every detail), I could compile a map for you.
Last edited:
I will take off the snorkel tomorrow, schorl air filter (paper but bigger holes), powerage exhaust, 83.5 piston (12.000km in), red ecu (of course), NGK spark plug, full synth oil. head is stock. TB is stock. cam is stock.
morning temp here between 12 and 15 C at the moment - getting warmer slowly.
bike has the "choke" near the clutch which I use.
and I forgot: bike "pops" when decelerating (not a lot but perceivably)
morning temp here between 12 and 15 C at the moment - getting warmer slowly.
bike has the "choke" near the clutch which I use.
and I forgot: bike "pops" when decelerating (not a lot but perceivably)
Secondary air injection delete kit installed? If not do so.
Exhaust pipe is stock, only endcan right?
Attachments
This should be on all BS4 as it helps to pass the emission test, so check that out.
To my knowledge only the BS3 was without it and has a different head.
Anyhow I'll try to compile a map for you as soon as I can, but it will take at least a couple of days, as I'm busy with my daily job. You definitely need that with your configuration, map as it is it's too rich, at least 3/4% specially above 4500/5000 RPM (you have no cam) and at idle (you should have 2,65 as base value, in your case it should be around 2,45/2,5).
A small plate of any metal sealed with Silastik, leave the Coil connected and stuff it under the Tank, thats what I did on the 443.
Oh and a small plug on the Air Box, again silastik will do.
You can leave the pipe on the head , cut it and bend it over, then undo it and stuff silastik in from the flange end, leave for 12 hours or so for the silsatik to cure. RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing.
The problem with Reading Spark Plugs is that most people are not able!
What you see when you look at an uncut spark plug is not worth much and cutting spark plugs is not common but the only way to read them is to destroy them first.
People say" my spark plug tells me this or it looks like this and they are talking out of their asses. They must be CUT and READ not fkn looked at by a dumbass with a camera.
Hacksaw the thread off and look at the Porcelain anyone can look at the outside but its inside that counts, I once posted up a YT video of how it should be done, lost now with the changeover.
A good alternative is to have an AFR meter, but again not common!
What you see when you look at an uncut spark plug is not worth much and cutting spark plugs is not common but the only way to read them is to destroy them first.
People say" my spark plug tells me this or it looks like this and they are talking out of their asses. They must be CUT and READ not fkn looked at by a dumbass with a camera.
Hacksaw the thread off and look at the Porcelain anyone can look at the outside but its inside that counts, I once posted up a YT video of how it should be done, lost now with the changeover.
A good alternative is to have an AFR meter, but again not common!
@sam2019 trust me when I tell you that your bike is running rich.
The map you're running has been optimized using @Dool dyno run data, basing all the observation on a bike that has been heavily modified.
@Dool usually runs a free flowing filter (no airbox, no snorkel) and a wide and open exhaust pipe, without cat. He even has wraps around the exhaust header pipe, which makes the exhaust gas flow faster. What all of that means?
Whenever you restrict the gas flow (either adding the cat in the exhaust pipe or an airbox with the snorkel on) given the same amount of fuel, the mixture becomes richer. On top of that add that the HT-b cam, providing higher lift and duration, keeps the valves open for a longer period, allowing more air to flow both in and out of the cylinder. You don't have that at the moment, so even less air flows within your engine, but in case of the cam that is more noticeable at higher RPMs.
So how all of that adds up?
In my experience the air filter causes (counts for) approx 1,5-2% enrichment and the cat for another 1.3/1.5%. The cam adds up another 2/2.5%, but more on the higher side of the RPMs range, say above 4000/4500RPMs, less noticeable down low.
Adding all up you're approx 2.8 to 3.5 rich up to 4200/4500RPMs and between 4.8% to 6% beyond that...
Idling is also off, as the base value is meant for a very modded 477, not yours.
re-read thoroughly this post and find the proper base value for your configuration. It should be around 2.40/2.45, the one on your map is 2.65. That's about 10% richer than it should be, just to put things in perspective.
The map you're running has been optimized using @Dool dyno run data, basing all the observation on a bike that has been heavily modified.
@Dool usually runs a free flowing filter (no airbox, no snorkel) and a wide and open exhaust pipe, without cat. He even has wraps around the exhaust header pipe, which makes the exhaust gas flow faster. What all of that means?
Whenever you restrict the gas flow (either adding the cat in the exhaust pipe or an airbox with the snorkel on) given the same amount of fuel, the mixture becomes richer. On top of that add that the HT-b cam, providing higher lift and duration, keeps the valves open for a longer period, allowing more air to flow both in and out of the cylinder. You don't have that at the moment, so even less air flows within your engine, but in case of the cam that is more noticeable at higher RPMs.
So how all of that adds up?
In my experience the air filter causes (counts for) approx 1,5-2% enrichment and the cat for another 1.3/1.5%. The cam adds up another 2/2.5%, but more on the higher side of the RPMs range, say above 4000/4500RPMs, less noticeable down low.
Adding all up you're approx 2.8 to 3.5 rich up to 4200/4500RPMs and between 4.8% to 6% beyond that...
Idling is also off, as the base value is meant for a very modded 477, not yours.
re-read thoroughly this post and find the proper base value for your configuration. It should be around 2.40/2.45, the one on your map is 2.65. That's about 10% richer than it should be, just to put things in perspective.
I have this post with me this morning. will do the changes before attempting another start up cold.
all the other changes like idle adjust, snorkel removal and Dool's workaround for the delete kit will have to wait until Saturday morning bc Thursday is Sunday here and Friday is the day I can use the workshop for all those changes outside the mapping.
In any case: thanx for the tips so far!
Last edited:
if it was done!